Land of Milk and Honey
Author: Lois Theaker, Citizen Journalist
Last month in Saanich Voice Online, local farmers expressed their thoughts on farming and marketing on the Peninsula. They are out there growing good things for us, and their food is available at farm gates and markets, but how about at the big grocery stores?
In a recent survey Fairway, Peninsula Co-Op, Safeway, Thrifty’s, and the Red Barn Market all cited weather and the lack of a constant supply of product as the main barriers to providing more locally grown foods in-store. All five stores sell at least one line of milk and milk products from island dairies. Local honey is also in all of the stores. Vancouver Island eggs are available, and the Co-op and Red Barn sell organic free-range eggs from Saanich Peninsula. Deli cheeses from Qualicum and Courtenay are offered in all but Safeway.
Fairway Market has a store in Sidney and hopes to open its Brentwood Bay store in June. According to Jennifer Loo at the head office,“We buy some local island or BC produce when we can get enough.” Canadian and local products are preferred, but cost and a steady supply are crucial. Randy Andres, the produce manager, reports that he plans “to do something completely different at the Sidney and Brentwood Bay stores. There will be a lot more direct marketing with daily deliveries fresh from the farm.” Andres also explained how important daily deliveries are because “local produce has a high water content which decreases its shelf life.”
Peninsula Co-op’s produce manager Darick Pacheco said that “there is very little available presently (early spring), but local cucumbers and other hot-house products from up-island are coming on-stream very soon.” He was much more enthusiastic about summer produce and talked about several local growers who provide the store with corn, berries, kiwis, and other local vegetables. “Some of these are bought through wholesalers, but the store can find out where the products are grown.” When asked about the obstacles to having more local food in the store, he answered, “Cost is a big factor and shelf life of some local products is also a concern. Local strawberries, for example, taste a whole lot better, but they cost more and don’t last as long as the ones from California.” Most of the meat at the Co-op is either grown or finished in Alberta.
Safeway in Sidney deferred to Betty Kellsey from Public Affairs in the Calgary office. “Safeway’s policy is to seek out Canadian or Western Canadian first, and when local is available these products have priority, providing there is enough supply and the quality that Safeway requires. All of the meats we sell in our Vancouver Island stores come from Western Canada.”
Thrifty’s Assistant Produce Manager in Saanichton, Ed Vandervlugt, said, “When local is available, local is what Thrifty’s sells, so for four months of the year we sell a lot of local produce.” Vandervlugt listed farms that have direct relationships with the store for supply over the summer months, as well as a local grower who provides organic greens year round. He also noted that “things have certainly changed in the 30 years I have been in the business. Back then there was nowhere near the variety of produce. Lifestyle drives a lot of the market, and people expect exotic fruits and vegetables all year round rather than on a seasonal basis.”
Desiree Vandenberg, grocery manager at Red Barn Market on West Saanich Road said, “Guaranteed! As long as local is available we will bring it in. We pride ourselves on having local and organic products at this location.” Presently, Red Barn has a variety of local greens and some specialty grocery items. Red Barn stood out from the other stores in its supply of local meat. They have island-grown chicken and beef from the Cowichan Valley. Their pork and turkey is from the lower mainland. Vandenberg pointed out that the deli counter is full of black labels indicating all of the sausages and meat products that are smoked or processed at their Vanalman location.
Is having a wider selection of locally grown foods important to you? Mother Nature has a big hand in this, but so does the shopper. As consumers, do we ask enough questions of our big stores on this issue? Next month, look forward to a conversation with Thrifty Foods’ Michael Mockler who provides some surprising answers.
Great article. Well researched and written. Red Barn is to be commended – that’s now the first place my wife shops, mostly because so much is local. Ironically, the Co-op has less local produce than Red Barn or Thrifty’s. My wife says that if Fairway has local stuff, they don’t advertise it.
As a grower, my experience is that supplying the big markets (Coop, Thriftys,etc) is not very profitable. They expect special rates and the display does nothing to add to the life of the product. It is more financially viable to market at farm gate – no delivery and amazing customers.
Meeting the customers, sometimes makes it all worthwhile, instead of just wholesale marketing.
Thanks, Biodiversity, for being a plus for the customers’ health and that of your land.
The “special rates” expected by merchants certainly bodes ill for ‘community service’, doesn’t it!